Saturday, June 26, 2010

Week of Minimal Sleep

My last week in Norway was filled with long hours of work or late hours of social festivities. There was a bit to finish or follow-up on this week work-wise. One of my bedtimes was postponed by an 11pm - 12:15am meeting at the factory. Yes, there is some 24/7 hour work that is being done and it required a teleconference with folks back in Cali. It was fruitful, and tiring. The other nights involved a girls dinner at a coworker's house that went until just past sundown (11pm) and catching up with a coworker whom just arrived in the Oslo airport hotel until 11pm. That morning my alarm went off at 4:35am to get to the terminal for the first (6:55am) of the string of flights home. I arrived safetly at home in the early afternoon yesterday and have had my first full night of sleep in 4 days.

The garden is officially going bonkers. It's quite amazing how much things grow in 3 1/2 weeks. The sunflowers were about 3 ft when I left and grew an additional 3-5 feet while I was gone. Yep, we have an 8 ft sunflower stalk... and it's not even blooming yet! The lettuces, broccoli, and cilantro have gone to flower (maybe Jamie wasn't eating enough salad?) and the insects/bees are loving it. I look forward to doing some gardening today... taking out weeds, regaining control of some plants (the sunflowers have leapt forward and blocking the grapes, and plant some new flowers in time for my Mom's arrival on Tuesday.

Thanks for following me this trip. I'll let you know when the next one starts. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures from Prague last weekend!

From Norway II (Springtime!)

Saturday, June 19, 2010

P r a G u E

Prague, Czech Republic.
I would not know where to point on a world map if someone asked where it was.
I could guess it was a gothic/dark-type destination
I figured it was off limits for a while (in history)
Aside from a credit and a debit card, that's about all I came here with. Today my education was advanced during my day of urban exploration...

Prague:
- Has more jewelry shops that can feasibly stay in business
- Does not have a leash law - dogs follow owners at their own will whether in a park or on the cobblestone sidewalks, no matter if its a doxen or a wolf. SO unlike LA.
- Easy to find a ex/change counter, very difficult to find an ATM
- Souvenir shops are like the currency, for every 1 US souvenir shop, Prague has 20
- The architecture (for a non-architecture person) makes one want to walk slower or re-walk the streets
- The glass/crystal shops are just as numerous as the jewelry shops
- The Czech cuisine most resembles Ireland, although that is an ignorant assumption for one whom hasn't been to Ireland... meat, potatoes and cabbage.
- It's VERY photographic city

Today was a lot of walking, a little bit of tasting, some shopping, and mostly absorbing. The bullets sum up my main observations. I saw the frequented sites... castle grounds (not interior), Charles bridge, Old Town, Wenscala Square, and along the river. Today I happened upon a hippy/international fair. I had baklava from Kirghistan, a garbanzo/tomato/cucumber/mint salad from Afghanistan, and a taste of wine from Georgia. There were also Greenpeace, dreadlocks, and refugee-sensitive countries in attendance.

Breakfast was a lovely buffet at the hotel. Lunch was a banana, pear, and nutella ice cream cone, which sounds better than it tasted. Dinner was excellent and at a pub/bar from 1499. The food was not from then, just the structure. It is the oldest food/pub establishment in Prague. I shared an (indoor) picnic table with a couple from Holland (him)/Italy (her) and they comprised by settling in France (near Nice) for the last 20 years. We share the table, we shared conversation, and we shared our first experience with Becherovka... a liquor that is best described as a cross between tequila, gingerbread, and chai. I'll try to get some at duty free tomorrow for those that want a taste. The waiter mentioned the ingredients are secret, and apparently he is completely accurate. Sheesh

After dinner it was dusk, not quite dark yet. I wanted to take some night snapshots of the castle, so I "wasted" time at a waterfront cafe with a glass of wine and an acoustic guitarist that I suspect was American. There has been a ridiculous... I mean surprisingly number of Americans around Prague the past 24 hours. I hear the accent everywhere and have spoken to a few about it. It is certainly unexpected. While at this riverside venue, fireworks started exploding on the other side of the nearby bridge. The guitarist was put-off to say the least, he couldn't compete with the bangs, however it was neat timing on my part. It was a 10 minute show. The guitarist did some "Sweet Home Alabama, Born to be Wild, and some Santana". Quite good overall. My glass was empty, he was done, and the sky was dark enough for my exit to be timely in order to get some attempts at a night shot of the castle. Many shots later I mosied on back to the hotel. It was 10:30pm at this point and aside from there still being plenty of activity on the streets, many of the tourist stores were still open for business. I concentrated on my hotel room and here I am. It's bed time, and it's been a pleasure sharing with you.

Tomorrow is a lazy morning with a mid-day flight to Oslo. Not interesting, but certainly restful!

Friday, June 18, 2010

Social Late Nights = Blog Neglect

Late nights and social plans has been the theme this week with it getting progressively worse... or I mean later nights. It started out Sunday with an hour late plane returning to Oslo resulting in a midnight arrival at the Kongsberg hotel. From lack of sleep in Bodo (maybe from the lack of darkness?), I attempted bed at 8pm on Monday night, unsuccessfully. A couple hours later I finally dozed.

Tuesday night was Chef Sas at my coworker Camilla's house. I cooked for her last time and she appreciated it. This time the menu was stuffed mushrooms, roasted garlic bulb on bread, sweet potato fries, and portugese tomato soup. It was delicious and refreshing after a dieat of bread & cheese, or food from restaurants. Camilla had prepared a raspberry mousse with raspberries from last year's harvest at her parent's place. Awesome. Once at the hotel, my current eye candy non-fiction book kept me up. It was magically turning page by thrilling page through the story (Ship of Gold) and so I was entranced and unable to fall into slumber until 11, or was it midnight?

Wednesday the 5 course meal was worked off. After plugging away on the computer all day, another coworker, Margaret, took me for a trail run up the mountain and along a ridge. I was breathless for the first 15-20 minutes but was able to adjust for the rest of it. She had a serious skill of dodging the roots and rocks, earning her the name Twinkle Toes, or even Mountain Warrior. It was a great work-out and view from the top. We rested on her balcony afterwards for a glass of gassy water. Not my usual post workout refreshment, but it more or less did the trick. Upon returning to the hotel, calling Jamie, and more book shinanigans, sleep didn't happen until around midnight.

Thursday was the grand finale. It was the local company's summerfest, or company summer party. My friend (expat coworker) and I were fortunate enough to be invited. I had brought a cheap cowboy hat on this trip (CU alumni giveaway) as a prop to use when walking around the office & factory the first day... "I've got my lasso and I'm here to corral y'all together. Now don't cha worry, I left the whip at home..." However cowgirl Sas didn't quite make her appearance as the opportunity just wasn't right. So, the cowboy hat sat in the office. It turned out the company summer part was themed Cowboys, so the prop was the perfect accessory for the party. What a coincidence, I've only worn this hat 1 other time. Actually, about half of the guests had cowboy (or Australian) hats on and a couple even had chaps on!

Moving on... the party started at 5pm and there were some team building activities (stacking hay bales as high as possible, shooting cowbells with bee-bee guns, building a bridge with oversized lincoln logs, how many people can you fit on a 1x1m platform -11 for my team). The games were great fun. A catered, barbeque-styled buffet followed next, lakeside. A hired group of ladies line danced and had a teaching session, then the country band warmed up and led us all in the line dancing. Bales of hay lined the gravel dance floor and the music (all american country) continued. It started to feel like a 8th grade dance. People standing around talking with drinks, while some of the guys went up to girls to ask them to dance. It was not something that I was used to, but it certainly was fun. I wish more US companies did such festivities.

The party was over at 11:30pm (bus arrived for transport then) and so everyone boarded. I got off in town with a dozen other folks (1/2 being managers) and we went out for a night cap. A mojito was handed to me, by a coworker whom had conversed with me earlier on how bartenders hate making mojitos because they are so much effort. It was just like him to order them, he is a good button-pusher. I did appreciate it though... there was no dessert at the party, this was a sweet minty way to finish the night. The hotel bed greeted me at 2am. The latest night yet.

Even with the late social nights, the days were busy and productive. I am working hard since I only have 1 more week to make an impact and influence the supplier. Only 1 more week!

I'm in a sweet hotel in Prague right now and my eyes are propped open with sheer enjoyment on keeping up the blog. For dinner I had a potato soup served in a very proper bread bowl, ginger ale, and a large ramikin of rhubarb pear crumble topped with honey sour cream. It's something I may try to replicate at home. Any guinea pigs? The total number on the bill was a little less than what it'd be in Norway (216), except here I get to divide it by 20 for the conversion, instead of 5. It ended up being the equivalent of $10. Wow, cheap!

Tomorrow is expected to be a soggy day of walking. I'm going to rest up well tonight! Enjoy.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Panoramic Bodø

Yesterday was a beautiful day. The weather forecast for this weekend showed an icon with a sun, a cloud, and rain drops. It was determined that either the forecasters are lazy, the weather changes frequently, or the entrusted site doesn’t monitor this part of Norway. I came prepared with sunglasses, sweaters, and a rain coat. I certainly used all of them, although the rain coat came in more handy for wind blockage or warmth than for repelling rain.

After updating the blog Saturday morning, I headed downstairs and asked the receptionist if there were any markets open today. She pointed in the direction of a farmer’s market and off I was. The market consisted of half a dozen stands: breads, honey, cheeses, and tortillas with sweet flavored cream cheeses? That last was an odd one, but that’s what it tasted like. There was a saxophone playing over a sound system, and an all-women percussion team marched up a few streets. They were supporting some event, although it was unclear to me what. I purchased a sesame loaf and a semi-hard cow’s cheese and continued on my way.

I went in a few stores… blomster (florist) where they had a neat stick display (see pictures) and in a chain store of furniture and house décor. They had some lampshades on sale ($3/piece) that are perfect for a lamp I purchased from a flea market last time I was here. The shades in the US were $15/ea and I’ve been holding off on buying them because it’s silly to pay that much. At this Norwegian sale price, it was a steal. I got 6.

At this point, town was checked off the list. It was either head South to where there might be a flat seaside stroll, or head North to the bordering hills for a view. I chose North and WOW. After dropping off the lampshades in the hotel room and grabbing a map from the tourist office, I journeyed up a main road, past a Hurtigruten ship (Jamie & I had taken Polar Lys Hurtigruten ship Southbound through this town... however the stop was from 1am-3am so we didn't disembark the ship, the Northbound ship docks from 12pm-3pm), through a residential area, and at the dead-end onto a non-marked weeded trail. Without the map in hand, one would think the trail was only used by teenagers to escape at lunchtime. The nameless trail started steeply uphill and sometimes had questionable footing from dirt on cement. Or maybe it was that my nice sandals had no grip. Either way, I took it slow and still managed a light sweat. Once at the top, the view was teasing through the trees. I was stoked to get on the ridge and hike along it West towards the sea. I arrived at a radio tower and had a 280 degree view. I could see the colorful town to the South below, that peak resembling Half Dome, some saw-tooth ranges, up the entry of a fjord, and the islands along the Northern coastline. At the next hill the 360 panorama was complete with views West of mountainous islands in a distance, known as the Lofoten Islands. All the mountains in view at snow capped peaks. It was quite scenic.

Out of my backpack came the loaf of bread, cheese, peanuts, and water. It was a fantastic picnic. I hung out as long as possible. When the breeze started to pick up, I headed back for the shelter of the radio tower building. I sat on a protected bench, de-layered (it was warm out of the wind!), and called Jamie for a long chat. There was no wind break because there were few trees. The largest trees in town are no taller than a house, and once up on the hills forget about it. The trees were a maximum of 15 feet and sometimes only brush. The treeline in Norway is around 3,000 ft (compared to around 10,500 ft in Cali).

A solid two hours had passed, Jamie & I had caught up (Moxie doesn’t like the phone) and so I headed down. It was a faster return walk to the hotel, likely because I knew where I was going this time. I took a good rest in the hotel for a bit before cleaning up and finding nourishment at a Thai restaurant. I got the last available table (there were only 3 tables occupied, and the rest were reserved). Despite there being only 1 vegetarian item on the menu, the food was great. I was hoping for a few more veggie options, it being a Thai restaurant and all, however it’s a Thai restaurant in Norway. It is relatively difficult to be a vegetarian in this country (especially if one didn’t eat seafood), and nearly impossible to be a vegan. Norwegians like their eggs (hard or soft boiled), and their cheese. I skipped dessert and returned to the hotel for some knitting and TV entertainment.

It was just my luck, the movie The Departed was coming up on a TV channel next. It is tough to find English-speaking shows, let alone a free movie, so I was quite happy. It would keep me awake to midnight, at another chance to the see the midnight sun. At midnight, I took a trip to the top floor of the hotel (the bar was much less crowded than the previous night), and no-go. The sky was more cloudy than the previous night. It was still plenty light, just no sun in view. Aw shucks.

I finished up the movie, read a book, and had difficulty getting to sleep. The caffeine from the Jasmin tea at the restaurant stuck with me longer than was welcomed. After a couple hours, slumber finally had its way and I awoke at 9:30am. After a hotel breakfast, packing up my stuff, and checking out at noon, here I am. I’m going to have a relaxing day, and take a “day-off” from both working and from playing tourist. It’s a typical Sunday; the stores, restaurants, and tour centers are closed. There is nothing to do but entertain oneself. I have the internet, knitting, and a good book so I’m in good order to conduct a Sunday Norwegian style (minus the family time), until my flight this evening.



From Norway II (Springtime!)

Saturday, June 12, 2010

48 hours of Light

The past two days of work were all-day meetings as two coworkers were in town. It’s a type of program evaluation. The days are long and lead into the night as everyone goes out for dinner and drinks. At the end of the 2nd day, everyone split up and I, towards the Oslo the airport. There was plenty of time, so it was a relaxing drive (in the rain) to OSL.

At the airport I returned the rental car. Yes, I’ll be picking a rental car back up on Sunday. Next week I will again drop it off on Friday, and pick it up on Sunday. You’d think it’d be cheaper to rent it for a whole month. However, the Avis lady did the calculations at the counter and confirmed it’d be $55 cheaper (+ cost of weekend airport parking) to turn it in on Friday and pick up another car on Sunday evening, and ditto for the following weekend. That’s fine with me, one less thing to worry about on my weeeknds. After a security check of my backpack, I was off to the domestic wing.

The name of my destination literally means “Live Die”, Bodø. Yes, it is quite the black ‘n white name, which fits well with a town that has 24 hr darkness for a month in winter and 24 hr light for a month in the summer. That is the purpose behind my weekend destination… midnight sun. Earlier in the day, I had looked at a map of the town in relation to the airport. It certainly looked like you could walk out of the airport and into town. Great, no bus nor taxi required. However, my flight was getting in at 10:30pm, so I wasn’t sure of the safety factor of walking that late. Wait a minute, … it will be light outside. I should be fine!

The flight was an easy 1h 15m. We were up above the rainy clouds in no time and headed North. The clouds began to scatter as we followed the coastline and I could see snow, glaciers, peaks, green valleys, and fjords. The plane began its decent and came extremely close to some rock cliffs resembling Half Dome (Yosemite) and other rocky peaks. It is certainly a flight path that would rock my nerves if it was foggy. Unfortunately my camera was buried, so I took mental snapshots. We made a hard turn and there was the ocean. The mountainous islands were quite a sight with a colored sky behind them. Very cool.

Upon landing, sure enough the town center was a 1 km (0.6 mile) walk, and it was plenty light out. It may as well have been late afternoon on a cloudy day. The town center is right on a harbor, and there was plenty of activity. I dropped my bags in the hotel room and went back out to grab a glass of vino. There was a guitarist playing in a white tent in a parking lot with some picnic tables hosting some jolly fun folks. I grabbed a glass of red and listened to the music (50% American songs, 50% Norwegian) and watched the action. It was now 11:30pm and there were people eating dinner (all restaurants were open including Subway, Burger King, Peppe’s Pizza, etc.), people had just finished shopping, and there were boats returning to the harbor. It was a surprising level of activity outside of the bars.

At 11:45pm I walked along the harbor for a midnight picture. Unfortunately the sun was still not out so I didn’t get to see the midnight sun, just the midnight light. It was the equivalent of a cloudy summer day at 7-8pm. I was exhausted and my eyes tired (even a little bloodshot). I returned to the hotel a different way, where there was even more activity through an outdoor mall. Once in the room I closed the black-out curtains and had no problems going to sleep for a long, restful time.
The hotel breakfast buffet was open from 7-11am. I can’t remember any other hotel that has had the breakfast open until 11. Might as well consider it lunch! Now that I’ve got a head start on digesting, it’s time to go do some exploring to see what else the town has to offer. My expectations are low!

From Norway II (Springtime!)

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Bland Middle of the Week

Grocery stores here are quite small compared to the grocery warehouses of Cali. I went looking for a jug of apple juice (only come in tall waxy cardboard boxes here) and a jar of peanut butter. I love my PB with my afternoon fruit. The apple juice selection was larger than anticipated and the PB selection not so much. Two choices: organic natural crunchy peanut butter or organic natural smooth peanut butter. The former is 20 cents more than the latter. I went for crunchy. Afterall, what is 20 cents when the jar is $7?

On Monday night I dined at my favorite restaurant, Skragata. The owner (monsieur) greeted and immediately recognized me. With a hug he welcomed me to an outdoor patio table. No order was necessary before there was a glass of red wine in front of me. Is it bad that a Norwegian restaurant owner recognizes me, but there is not one place in my hometown where even a server would recognize me? Monsieur survived the winter and had gotten a new French chef whom was excellent (he took me into the kitchen to meet her at the end of the meal). With the appetizer bread came a shaped dollop of butter that had a small pool of balsamic vinaigrette. What a sweet topping for the bread. The main vegetarian course was varied slightly (for the better) than last time. The dessert was a passion fruit soufflé pancake. My thought was that it has GOT to be interesting. It didn’t fail. It resembled a fruity crème brulee stuffed crepe with a scoop of mango sorbet atop a sugar cookie crisp. A delicious finish.

The work week is going well. I have come up with a few break-through ideas and am in the process of introducing them to the different project stakeholders. When onsite at suppliers, there is certainly a personality, process, and patience that one needs, in order to change behaviors, expectations, and accept the new/unusual ideas. It does not come easy and takes open minds on all sides. Sometimes it’s easy to find these open minds, and more times than not, there are challenges in first bringing the audience to be open-minded. This is where the creativity and the real challenge come into play. I’m working hard as my time to reach these goals is very limited. 3 ½ weeks is not much to make a big dent. Work hard, play hard, oh and eat well!

Monday, June 7, 2010

Springtime All Over Again

The Columbine are up, cherry blossoms decorative, apple blooms dotting the trunks, Astilbe are errect at attention, Bleeding Hearts... well, bleeding, zinnas peeled open, and the lilacs are living large and in-charge. It's springtime all over again. Norway seems to be a few weeks behind the CA foliage schedule, yet it is actually warmer here. Both nights I've eaten out here, I was borderline sweating sitting ouside, in a sleeveless shirt at 6:15pm. Granted, the sun is up as high as it would be at 3pm, but still. It was a temperature I was not expecting. So much for my packed scarf, gloves, and hat. I guess they will stay packed.

The sun is certainly something else. It's quite tough going to sleep when the sun is still up. My eyes slow down, my head doesn't quite function clearly, and yet my body is confused at why it needs to start relaxing. The sun, by the way, is still up... it's 10:27pm. It rests in 5 mintues, and will rise at 3:59am.

Today was a grinding day over the computer at work and I'm beat. Yesterday I posted the pictures from my weekend in Bruge. Enjoy them!




From Norway II (Springtime!)

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Belguim Beer, Biking & Beach

Well, I found an "internet cafe" called Snooker Palace. The place is no internet cafe as you think of it. It can best be described as a back room to a dive bar that happends to have computers, or better yet... the dirty attic of a smoker's house. It's really that bad.

Yesterday I made it to Brugge, Belguim via Brussels. It was literally planes, trains, and automobiles (almost in that order). I wasn't good for much last night other than a search for an hotel with availability, a crepe, and glass of vino on the center square.

Today's plans were to check out town/shops of Brugge and do some chocolate tastings. I didn't get to the former, and the latter turned into buying Belguim chocolates 15 minutes after the store was supposed to close (6:15pm)... let alone tasting.

The morning started bright & early at 5am, thanks to a friendly gnat around the headboard. Oh, and the diesel trucks having a parking contest in the square in front of the hotel. Sleep was hopeless so I started in on my book for a couple hours. I was timely for the hotel breakfast of bread, butter & tea and out the door to investigate the results of the diesel trucks... they had turned into stores... a market of a sort. Most of it was disappointing. The majority of the products resembled shirts, socks, pantyhose, skirts, etc. that stores couldn't sell over the past 5 years. The section I was doubling back for was the food. I bought some bread at the most popular bakery table, Belguim hard cheese from the cheese display, and 2 pastries (why decide between 2 when there is no one else to weigh in on the decision? get both!).

A quick trip to the hotel to pack up my backpack and I was on my way for batteries and sunblock. The weather is amazing, but I'll go into that on another post. On the way there, I passed a bike rental shop over-running w/ people. So I went and rented a bike for 4 hours (current time- 9:30am). I wasn't sure if I could see it all by foot anyways, so a bike would at least help me get a layout of the city. I bought batteries and used the SPF 50 tester from a pharmacy shop and was on my way!

Or, so I thought. After a few turns here and there, I realized Brugge is much bigger than originally anticipated and I had no idea how to get out. There is no way the roads here are parallel. I stopped and asked an older fellow who "looked the local Brugge part"... or at least walked w/ confidence. He was excited to hear the English and asked where I'm from in the US. He lived in Chicago for the middle 40 years of his life (he was born in 1939). He knew where I should go, but instead of explaining it, he said to follow him. So I sat on my bike and walked it along next to him while we chatted. We detoured to a fancy rich family's house and then down to the circular moat bordering the Southeast side of the city. At this point I could've rode off and go on my way, but the conversation was interesting so I kept paddling my sandal along the path. At an intersection, he invited me for a drink before my ride... and thought... why not? So across the street we went to a pub on a busy corner and grabbed an outdoor table. The waiter came quickly, and my new friend asked what kind of beer I'd like. Hmmm, for those that know... this is not a question for me 'cause I don't like beer. That being said, I can't tell that to the Belguim guy who has offered to buy me one. I also don't want to leave here never having tried one. So, I asked if there is a fruity/sweet option. There was (Kriek) and I really enjoyed it. Think beer equivalent of a wine cooler. Less alcohol content and all. Half-way through the glasses I broke out the pastries and we finished them. The conversation covered everything from US destinations (he lived in NY & CO), his job as a TWA pilot, to his father's Nazi imprisonment (Belguim army POWs let go after 3 months due to Nazi's confidence), to being back in Brugge where he was born. Interesting guy and it was a good way to start the day... although it was around 11am when we finished.

I rode my bike. I stopped in Damme. I rode my bike more. I stopped in Silius. I rode my bike more and slowed down near Kokke, and followed the salty breeze to the beach where I ate what was left of my picnic lunch (bread & cheese). Then I got completely lost in Kokke (even after asking 3 people) for about 30-40 minutes. Finally I found my way and returned to Brugge. It was an epic ride through the most beautiful flat terrain I've ever biked. Miles of double tree grove lined canals (double tree groves on both sides of the canals) connecting awesome cobblestone, quaint towns. The beach was as wide or wider than the LA beaches... same air & water temps too. I purchased some trinkets in the towns. My challenge tomorrow will be getting them all to fit in my 1 backpack with my clothes. Ryanair, I might be layering on the clothes tomorrow. They are super strict on their carry-on qualifications, hence discount airline.

All sweated out, I returned the bike at 5:30... a whopping 8 hours after I rented it for 4. The guy thanked me and took the bike. I told him I need to pay him more money. He shook his head. I insisted I need to pay him for another 4 hours and he stood firm. Okay, then... I'll go buy myself another beer! Cheers!

All I could think about was ice water, cold shower, ice cream, and (gulp) cold fruity beer. So that's what I did... in that order. Dinner (crazy goat cheese medallion salad) happened after all of that.

My legs are empty, my wallet is tired... I think it's about time to check in and finish the day how I started. Drinking a fruity book. Goodnight!

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Public Pat-Down

Well, I’ve gone Norge, again.
Like last time, this is a 3 ½ week venture. Unlike last time, there is a low probability of it turning into 10 weeks, due to a particular July 4th holiday weekend I’d like to participate in, and the July shut-down. The latter being a local factory closure for 2 (or is it 3?) weeks. Regardless, Norges usually tack on a week here or there such that there is zero work done for the entire month of July. How’s THAT for a holiday… instead of taking the July 4th holiday, let’s just start taking the July holiday.

I am no European traveler. For any moderately long trip, I don’t wear the boots, I skip the tight jeans (let alone skirts), don’t over accessorize myself with gold/platinum/silver/copper, and I don’t overstate black. These habits are not intended to stand apart from these Euro travelers, but instead were shaped by a separate set of principles: the US regulations (namely the TSA security processes), comfort, and the general acceptance of sweatpants. As usual, I was no challenge for the US TSA, my bags were carried through and I was clean as a plastic whistle going through the detector. The 3 rings, small post earrings, a leather-banded watch, and the metal chip in my passport were no threat to the plane. In Munich, it was a different story. Not only did the knitting needles in my bag aggravate the detector, the human buzzer went off too. I took 1 small step to the side (between the walk-through metal detectors), and awaited the female inspector to finish inspecting another traveler 2 feet from me. Within a minute she was onto me. She patted my arms, pits, my chest, my back, sides, lifted my shirt to run her hand around the elastic hip band of my pants, and then went South. No temporary walls, no separator glass, no decency, no nothing. It was just a good ‘ole public pat-down. Fortunately, she didn’t find any lumps so I’m good for another year.

The flights were easy and fine. I was able to do my normal transition between knitting, magazining, and catching up on movies that were neglected a couple months ago. Somehow my vegetarian meal preference never gets translated to the airline; however there is always a fish or decent veggie option available on the menu. I eat all of the food put in front of me in the biz class. At the layovers, I dart for the lounges and continue eating. The Munich lounge is one of the best (in my amateur eyes), namely because it employs the German culture whole-heartedly. There are classy black picnic benches, each adorned with salty, doughy pretzels hanging on the pretzel rack centerpieces. The atrium above has a beer label, properly framed with a mural of the black forest (from what I gather). More than half the occupants are drinking beer, the rest are eating wieners, and you can tell a newbie from the worn business traveler. Upon arriving on the landing, the newbie’s eyes do a slow scan of the room, the smile climbs across the lips, and suddenly the newbies find a hop in their step that leads them straight to the foamy amber beverages and Haribo gummies.

Due to a late-night arrival and the lovely airport hotel, I spent the night in the airport hotel.
At 10:10 pm the sun was just setting on the horizon.
At 11:15 pm (bedtime) the residual light in the sky was still coming through the curtains.
At 04:55 am I awoke wide-eyed in a fully-lit room (yes, through the curtains) and scrambled to find my watch in trepidation that I missed my 6am alarm. Nope. False alarm. Time to start my first day.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

22 Nov – Home Sweet Home

Home is wonderful and quite strange to be back. Jamie picked me up from the baggage claim area, fresh squeezed OJ in hand (loved it!), and ready to porter my five pieces of luggage. The warm air, sunny rays, and palm trees escorting us out of the airport led me to believe I was now on vacation. What a switch from the cold, damp, sunless weeks prior. Fantastic.

There have been some noticeably different things. The toilet paper here is part of the welcomed charm. The TP here is much softer and thinner than the paper offerings in Europe. The baby carriages there are just strollers here. Part of that reason is the Norwegians bundle their babies up, put them laying down in the carriage, and put the whole carriage outside on the patio or in the yard. Apparently, the babies sleep twice as long when sleeping outside. It makes for an interesting experience when you go to the daycare center and see 20-something carriages with babies, all outside unattended.

You know you’ve been gone a while when you cut your husband’s hair when you leave, and it needs a cut when you return.

You know you’ve been gone a while when you return and need to change the calendar by three pages.

You know you’ve been gone a while when you return, you not only find a Silver Club card to the hotel chain you joined in the stack of mail, but you find a Gold Club card as well.

The neighbors today had a happy hour from 3-5pm, their way of showing off their 4-5 month old not-identical twin boys. We stopped by for a little while. It was just enough time for some friendly chatter and a house tour. The home was a beautiful, charming well-done interior… similar to what could be found in magazine pages. The landscaping is also quite impressive in the front and backyards. The guy is a contractor, so he is a good person to know. Everyone has been talking about the fence Jamie built while I was away. They all compliment it… even the kids were talking about how “the guy is building it to keep the cat in”. Yep, Hairball is still around and meowier than ever before. We still don’t feed it. Back to the fence though, it’s no picket fence (overdone), but rather a type of horse fence. No plan for horses here!

Thank you for being “with me” on my ventures over the past couple months. It certainly helped me feel less-lonely, thinking of how to construct the blogs every few evenings and receiving your email responses. I’m not sure I’ll continue to write the entries. Perhaps I’ll start it up again on the next trip. In the meantime, I’ll revert back to my personal diary.

Friday, November 20, 2009

20 Nov – Water of Life, with T- 13hr left

It’s 8:30pm on Friday night at the airport hotel. I am beat.

The past week has lived up to the busy schedule that was expected. Some of my coworkers arrived for a review meeting, so it was great to hear and chat with other Americans. Last night we participated in a very traditional Christmas dinner at a hut/lodge at the top of a local mountain (remember that the mountains around here are more similar to an Adirondack mountain than a Tahoe mountain). The dinner included various meats, steamed brussel sprouts, boiled potatoes, mashed split peas, pureed orange cabbage root vegetable (no idea what the name is), cranberries, and two types of fish. The one type was Lutefisk.

Lutefisk deserves its own paragraph. Not because it is particularly good, oh no. It is exceptionally peculiar. Lutefisk is made from dried cod (perhaps hanging outside for 1 year), soaking it for one day in water, then allowing it to absorb soda (plain kind), among other flavors. The result is a fishy tasting jell-o. I tried the slightly opaque jiggling bite at the beginning of the meal. My tastebuds were sending red alert “Abort immediately” signals to my fork. It was quickly chased down with some aquavit before stomach reflexes could start. Halfway through the first plate, in hoping that this was all a malfunction and a second bite could only improve, I tried another wiggling nibble. Yuck, there was nothing broken about the initial assessment. The Norwegians claim it must be eaten with bacon over the top of it. Hmmm, that’s not the first time that greasy disguise has been used.

Wow, did the aquavit flow. As you’re aware, the aquavit (translate: water of life) is consumed at ceremonial dinners (like Xmas), with the purpose of breaking down the fatty foods. I suspect this is only the textbook reasoning. There seemed to be other purposes as many toasts insued and laughs were had. Aquavit is made from potatoes with a hint of caraway seeds. Somehow the resulting effect is similar to licorice scented vodka. It is served in a shot glass and seems to be sipped throughout the meal. If they sell it at Duty Free tomorrow morning (at 6am), I will bring home a bottle. If not, we can hope for next time (but not for at least a couple months please).

The time here has been a great experience. On more than one occasion, I’ve been asked a question along these lines:
We will probably never have as much time in Norway as you have had. If we are only there briefly, what are the three "don't miss" places/things in your mind?

This question can be answered in two ways. I can answer it in relation to my favorite experiences, or it can be at a level that is more accommodating to a future traveler. I’ll do the latter. For limited time, I would recommend sticking to the west coast. The central and eastern regions are more of the same. The west coast has the ocean, fjords, and reasonably easy access to the mountains (tree-line).
#1 Fjords – See the fjords. It is best to see them by car. A drive out of Bergen, or east of Stravanger should do just find. Many roads will require ferries to continue, which allow even better views of the fjords. Spending two or three days of fjord-hopping should full-fill the appetites of most.
#2 City – For some culture, spend a day or two in Bergen. Do the hike (or be taken up by cable car) the nearby hill/mtn, take the Norway-In-A-Nutshell tour (train, boat & bus), or simply just stroll around the different quaint old neighborhoods. It is quite the colorful little city / big town wedged between evergreen mountains and the fjord inlet.
#3 High country – Within a drive, bus (or train too I think) from Bergen is Hardvanger national park. I recommend spending some time to explore this high country. It is the classic Norwegian mountain plateau where reindeer roam wild… though you’d be lucky to find one. Much of it is above treeline (at 3-4K feet) and there are plenty of water sources… ponds, lakes, and waterfalls.
#4 Arctic Circle – It is a trip (literally and figuratively) going this far north. No need to go just to “say you did it”, but rather go to see the northern lights (if in the late fall/winter) or to the Lofoten Islands (or further North) in the endless sun summer.

Whoops, was I supposed to only provide three suggestions? Well, I’ll let you decide which one to skip. The only other suggestions I’d recommend is to rely on planes, trains, boats, or buses. The costs incurred in renting a car are not only high, however parking fees (in most towns) and gas prices are excessive too. Also, it’s best to travel in the shoulder seasons for lodging cost purposes. The cabins seem to be cheapest (1/3 cost of hotels) and they provide a place to cook in (instead of spending silly money at restaurants). I am happy to provide input to anyone considering a trip to this region.

An exerpt from Julia Child's autobiography regarding her thoughts of Oslo/Norway once she moved away were:
“I begain to feel nostalgic for Norway, with its good sturdy folk, its excellent educational system, its unspoiled nature, its lack of advertiseing, and its non-hectic rhythms. “ Julia Child

I couldn't agree more... it's all still true today. It’s now T-12 hours. Awesome. Home, here I come!

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Nov 17 - Saturated Final Days

T-4 days and counting. Last night the team here gathered at a local restaurant for pizza and beer as my send-off party. It was a rowdy good time with most of the team (some missed it as there are some meeting preparations underway). As we enjoyed a few rounds (my choice was red wine), each guy would get a text or call from his wife/girlfriend and disappear shortly thereafter. Never as the electronic leash of the cell phone been so apparent! Of the original 8, there were 5 of us left to pay the bill and head out in the cold night. The 5th guy got a pull on his leash once outside, and headed in a different direction. The remaining four of us went to Gamble Norge (Old Norwegian) pub for a game of darts. We fit three games in, ending in a draw (saved by the bar closing). This was my first opportunity to try the country’s classic alcohol aquavit. It’s hard liquor that is swallow in shot form during celebratory, fatty dinners like Christmas. They claim it helps your stomach break down the lard in the meal. With a claim like that, I was worried it would break down my esophagus first. After an initial sniff (waifs of licorice) and some on my lips, I eagerly threw my head back to get it over with. I feared it’d go down like tequila. To my surprise, it didn’t and thus more pleasant than anticipated. So, by night’s end I was saturated with spirits.

The weather has added to the saturated feelings. Except for 10 minutes in the car when driving my friend to the airport the other day, it has been overcast, rainy, or snowy every single minute for the past 2 ½ weeks. Denmark came close to this record, but think this is the longest I’ve gone without direct sunlight. It makes being inside and working easy, however I feel my skin going pale. Perhaps I may even get cloud-burned, and turn a hue of gray or pale blue from absorbing the cloud rays.

My schedule has been saturated with social plans every evening and work during the day. For the past week and upcoming nights, there are dinner plans involving different people and different places. It certainly makes time pass quickly. It also insinuates that my time here was valued and enjoyed by others! I hope to see some of these folks in California someday.

Dare I say I’m saturated of Norway? That’s a pretty big statement and not one I will sign up to now. However, I cannot wait to come home! Of course I miss home, however have not allowed myself to think about it for prolonging any feelings of anxiety and homesickness. That could really cause the final days to be miserable. My feelings began to change yesterday, when I realized I’ve lived in the hotel here in Norway more than I’ve lived in my “new” home in Hermosa Beach. That is when it really sunk in. I’ve had a fantastic time here and have certainly made the most with the opportunities offered. I won’t get weepy at this point, that is best saved for last. I just feel very lucky to have been here and very excited to come home.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

15 Nov – Hot and Cold Girls’ Weekend in Oslo

From Norway


It was a SUPER fun weekend… certainly a great last hoorah for my Norway adventures. It started when I checked into a room on the “ladies floor” of a sweet hotel in Oslo. The rooms of this “ladies floor” were each designed by women and for women. The hotel invited 11 famous Norwegian women (film star, singer, producer, business women, golfer, skier, etc.) to each team up with a professional interior decorator to completely overhaul a hotel room. The hallway was decorated with black and white posters of each lady. Each hotel door was inscribed with the famous lady’s name. It certainly made for a special atmosphere for my girls’ weekend in Oslo!

Flurries had started flying earlier in the day and by nighttime there was a heavy blanket of very wet snow. It provided fun Volkswagen Golf driving and a perfect “welcome to Norway” atmosphere for one of my best friends. We were both very excited to see each other and eager to chat about travel stories and our lives. We didn’t quiet down until sometime past 2am to absorb the needed Zzzzz’s.

Sat morning started with the wake-up-now-or-miss-breakfast alarm at 9:15am. It was a similar breakfast to my Kongsberg hotel breakfast. It provided good fuel for the day’s urban explorations. We headed down the pedestrian-only Stroget to the multi-culture flea market that I had visited on the earlier Oslo trip. There was different stuff yet some recognizable vendors. This seems to be the busiest and most crowded market of them all. We each found some treasures and successfully bargained for them. The slow perusing of junk had chilled our extremities, so a hurried pace returned us to the warm hotel to drop the baggage. It’s an appropriate time to mention that by “warm”, I mean: breaking a sweat after casually using four flights of stairs (regardless of going up or down them), not being able don a coat until well outside the building for prevention of wet pits, eating breakfast in the atrium room instead of the side room for fear of fainting. The hotel was stifling hot.

After dropping my bags, exchanging some clothes & footwear, and wiping my brow from the stairs, my friend and I navigated to the next item on the list… the farmer’s market. Her and I have been known to conquer these food markets together in LA, and were jazzed to see what the local bonders (“farmers” in Norwegian), have been harvesting. There were over a dozen tents of which 40% were meat/fish, 40% cheese, 10% fruit juices (plum and apple), 5% jam/spreads, 5% other (“other” includes veggies). After a careful review (based on tasteful sampling), we settled on 3 cheeses – including a hard goat cheese, a bottle of plum glogg (heated spiced Xmas drink), and a paper cup of hot, fresh, homemade apple cider… delicious. On our return to the hotel, we purchased two breads from a bakery and enjoyed a gourmet picnic spread in the hotel room. The warmth was welcoming after the cold on-and-off rainy, wet weather. The meal was delicious and toasty.

Once reheated and re-fueled , a quick toss of bathing suits and we trudged up more heated stairs to dip into the indoor rooftop treed pool. If I was to describe the features of this spa facility, there would be dandruff on your shoulders from all the scratches on your head. I’m going to skip this opportunity and force you to look at the pictures (if you haven’t already). On a side note, we were not allowed to take these photos, however were not told so until we exited the room and it was too late. My apologies, Mr. Black bathingsuit man… you are now famous to a few souls in the states!

We couldn’t dwaddle in the cool pool, suffocating steamy room, and the desert dry sauna. Next up was a ballet at the Opera House. I was one pair of shoes away from an appropriate Norwegian outfit and my friend was one pants short. Needless to say we did not go without, we just went knowing we’d never see these friendly strangers again. The ballet had three acts… all impressively athletic and captivating. We opted for the cheap seats ($18 US) and moved to the empty, improved seats. It was a fabulous show, the last act being the best with upbeat music and modern, sometimes comical movements.

By the fourth curtain call (yes, they bow many, many times), it was pouring rain and 8:15pm. It was time to scout out a dinner meal. I’m not quite sure what happened next. All I remember is relentless rain, blurred and foggy vision (glasses are not designed for use in rain), interpreting the food offerings of candlelit dining rooms, endless menus promising mouth watering burgers –which was our #1 rule for not picking eateries. The #2 rule was no Scandanavian food. What overshadows these memory, is the rain drops that started on my hair. Once my hair was thoroughly saturated, these drops drizzled their way down my forehead, leaping on my eyelashes to take the ride down to my cheek. Losing altitude, from my chin they were in freefall to my trench coat turned drenched coat. These wet pests didn’t give up here, oh no. Some would pilfer the final dry spots of my coat, others hurdled off my coat and began a soaking battle on my knees. That’s when I drew the line, and called for an immediate retreat to the stuffy hotel. All was not lost in this wet war. A hairdryer, towel and coat removal rid me of soggy misery.

The hotel restaurant was renowned in the Frommer’s book, so we took the best seat in the house. The menu was small and disappointing. It was obvious in breaking rule #2. Before the waiter returned to the table, we dashed out of the warmth, back into the streets (coatless this time), and literally ran hells bells for the Indian restaurant three blocks away… narrowly escaping the water droplet formations from proliferating past the hair. It was now 10pm. The cuisine did not disappoint. We relished the spices and clinked our glasses to the scrumptious dishes. It was quite an amusing evening thus far, and it was not over. In fact, the standout chapter was yet to come.

The rain finally let-up and a casual stroll was appropriate for digestion. A curious storefront was done in a completely white interior, with a queue of customers at the counter. There was some silver jewelry and less than a dozen white items that decorated the walls. This fascinating business was titled Icebar, by Ice Hotels. Intrigued, we helped ourselves in the door and waited in line. In luck, some folks were no-shows to their Ice Bar reservations. The bouncer dropped a faux-fur hooded poncho over my head, gloves attached, and ushered us through the first door. Once the first door closed, the second door opened and we were inside a metal-floor igloo. Ice was the walls, ceiling, stools, couch, and drinking glasses. My friend and I had a roaring time taking pictures and talking to fellow ice fans. My favorite activity (once the drink was finished) was to find a clinking partner, and do a clink high in the air, so hard that the ice glasses smashed, shattering into an explosion of ice. This was way more entertaining than throwing it on the floor as most others did. This Ice bar opened earlier in the week and is preceded by one in Stockholm, Tokyo, Dubai, and possibly one other major city that I forget. The time was limited to the top of the hour and we were the last group to enjoy it that night. What an unexpected pleasantry.

The walk home was warm, despite being coatless at midnight in Oslo. The bodily functions were still misguided from the Ice bar. It only made for an even hotter illusion once inside the smothering hotel. My friend and I recounted the day’s events with excitement and it took us just before 2am to calm down enough to rest. What a temperature and weather extreme day it had been… some naturally occurring, others some self-induced. It made for fantastic sleeping and even better memories! Thank you fellow Ice Queen!

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

10 Nov – Thumb twiddle here and there

I’m scraping the bowl for worthwhile topics for these entries. It’s apparent my mind is starting to focus on coming home ( 1 ½ more weeks). This subject is an item that I’ve tallied over my stay here. I was hoping to have more examples by now, however the three will have to do.

Norwegians are blunt. There’s no two ways about it. They are not the friendliest folk on the sidewalks, however once you get to know them they are easy to capture in conversation. Once “inside” they are very much a jovial bunch whom crack jokes and sarcastically poke each other with words. Over lunch, if they speak English, I fit right in. One whom talks about work at the lunch table remains the killjoy. During these friendly interactions, as well as on weekend encounters with strangers, I’ve realized they are a blunt society. It’s pertinent to understand, I’ve heard them admit it too. Blunt as blunt.

The first display of bluntness was on a few weeks ago on Friday. Within two minutes of using my lunch seat, the coworker across the table asked (out of the blue), “so why did Obama win the Nobel Peace Prize?” This was not only the first time politics had been discussed, but this question was being posed within an hour of the public announcement. In fact, her inquiry was my news broadcast. I had no idea why, let alone that Obama had received the Prize. It certainly got their point across in the most efficient manner possible.

That following weekend I was strolling the sprawling life statue park in Oslo. At this particular moment, the park was virtually empty and I had arrived at the main art sculptures. A lonely man walked up to me and spoke in the foreign tongue. I request English, in Norwegian. He replied with, “Do you believe in Jesus?” Being 11am on a Sunday, perhaps this is a common question. Stunned, I offered a meager portion of words that I no longer remember. He then proceeded to ask where I was from. Next was if I knew about the “Jesus Revolution” of the 1970s in California. I couldn’t admit I did, and this worshipper soon lost interest. I was relieved.
On the cruise, one of our temporary-passenger-lunch-companions told us that this cruise we had so eagerly signed up for was known to be the “cruise of rich blue-haired old American ladies and fat men with a camera resting on their belly”. Well, glad that we blew that stereotype out of the fjord water. Of the boat passengers, there was one person to fit this description. Of course, this was barely an acceptable sample size being there only 46 passengers.

The bluntness is amusing and not offensive. For many visitors, it may not always start off that way, however if the visitor has any amount of a laid-back or friendly attitude towards life, the awkwardness will end quickly. It’s just a fun aspect to the culture.

This tunnel to get me home has a light at the end. A light with a silhouette of a husband whom is holding something…. Ahh, it’s a glass of fresh squeezed OJ (he got that earlier hint, this is just a friendly reminder). Being in this tunnel certainly narrows my priorities for the next 11 days. Keeping focused on transitioning work activities, seeing a best friend in Oslo this weekend , and might I use the words “pack it up” in one phrase… I suspect the days will drop by the wayside, just as I pass the reflective markers in this tunnel.


On a side note, if you have any questions on Norway (or my experiences) please send an email! If the questions are interesting, funny or there are enough of them, I will make a blog entry out of them…. leaving the questioners completely anonymous. From the past feedback, I can confirm that there are 5 family members + 2 friends and 2 coworkers that are reading these entries. Thank you!

Sunday, November 8, 2009

08 Nov - Kongsberg Laziness + Babysitting (they don't go hand-in-hand

This weekend has been a complete relaxing, dare I say lazy weekend. For the past two months, every weekend has been spent in a different Norwegian or Swedish town. A combination of all the places being checked off my list, the snowy weather, and a coworker + family being in-town (not being by myself!) led me to stay in Kongsberg. Saturday was started with a long 3 hour wet walk through town and up around the local mountain. It rained the entire time and for much of it I was trudging through snow, yet I was able to stay warm. My feet did get wet (through my leather hiking boots) so I was happy, after stopping for a bakery lunch, to return to the toasty hotel. In the evening my babysitting services were accepted for a night with a 2 ½ year old boy and his 6 month old sister. Apparently, he is enamored with me, and asking his parents, “where’s Sara?” everyday and at dinner. It makes babysitting him a lot easier as he responds to my requests (put your pants on, get your jacket, go brush your teeth) with enthusiasm versus putting up fights to his parents for the same requests. I certainly energize him and wear him out during play time, and have enjoyed testing a new communication method on him. A few months ago, I learned something from one of Jamie’s coworker’s families. The parents do not talk to the little one in baby talk, but rather in a tone that would be used with an adult. This toddler is extremely smart and is catching on to a number of words and phrases that may otherwise have not been used. Her most amusing phrase is, “Daddy, can I tax your plate?”

The 6 month old is teething, so she wasn’t quite herself during the babysitting hours. I remained calm despite having a wailing alarm next to my ear. If I put her down, her screams could be heard at least two floors up and down, I’m sure of it. Even in my arms after a fresh diaper, and endless entertainment and movement she sounding her siren. After an hour or so, I needed to get her out of the hotel and out of range from my ear tubes, so we went for a walk to the train bridge. After getting the boy dressed (while holding her), we all went into my room so I could slip into my boots and a jacket (though both were untied/unzipped) because she was still screaming. She calmed down when we walked down the hallway and down the elevator. At this point in the lobby, she was put into the stroller. She let everyone in the hotel lobby, including the fancy ladies in sequence dresses, know it was happening against her will. She was pushed outside into the freezing dark evening in frustration. I pushed the stroller for 15 minutes through snow and we were almost to the bridge. Almost, before the boy walked through an ankle-deep (on him) puddle. Of course. I gently told him that since he walked through a puddle and his feet may get wet and cold we better turn around. So, we turned around back to the hotel. He was okay with that. She wasn’t. She had fallen asleep five minutes into the walk and upon returning to the warm air of the hotel room was awake, and again, felt the need to inform everyone on the floor. A pacifier did nothing. Dancing did nothing. A formula bottle did something for a little while. Then I gave up and put her in her crib. She was agitated at first, but if I “shhhed” her she quieted down. If I left, she’d send more distress signals. This provided little time to take care of the boy. He was becoming tired and cranky as well. After a tooth brushing activity and a small disagreement, he was put to bed. A few challenged versions of Jingle Bells (he started it) and Twinkle Twinkle, they were both asleep within minutes and stayed that way!

While awaiting for the parent’s return, I continued knitting a new project that I had cast-on that day. It’s a reversible scarf. A bit more complicated of a feat, but results with a more rewarding product! I had studied a similar scarf on the cruise boat and was motivated to give it a try… just as I was motivated to give babysitting toddlers a try. I’ll do it again before I leave as I know the parents really appreciate having a date night. I love date nights!

Thursday, November 5, 2009

05 Nov – Norwegian Digest(ion)

From Norway


Today I’m stepping up to the plate to concoct the food entry that has been marinating for so long. There is no shortage of menus, stories, nor ingredients to pull from. Where to start?

As I type this, I’m in Skragata, my favorite Kongsberg restaurant, though it’s quite different from my normal weekly visit. The Enya music has been replaced with familiar melodies, yet unrecognizable Italian voices. The server is not the owner, nor one of the two waitresses. It is the owner’s brother, whom is three-weeks into this position. He does not yet recognize me… too busy concentrating on meeting his monsieur brother’s high expectations. It took me two weeks to find this cozy eatery down a dark alley. The food was so impressive, wine so delightful, and menu so intriguing, I returned the very next evening. From then on, I was treated like a princess with a free glass of wine or dessert for subsequent visits. Six other folks have dined at this restaurant due to my recommendation. The menu offers five starters , one vegetarian entrée, two from the sea, and four or five mammal dishes. I have also been offered off-menu items which were just as delicious. I can speak for the veggie and fish dishes and the others have praised the meat dishes. The atmosphere is a clean, upscale cabin interior which provides a cozy compliment to the six inches of snow blanketing the patio. It’s been gently snowing for over 24 hours and that is all the accumulation. Back to the bread and butter though…

The notes I’ve kept, aka “blog ingredients”, for this entry may be best used as a list of memories and descriptions. Here goes, in no particular order:

1) High end food is buttery, creamy or cheesy. Low end food is, well, terrible. No matter if you order vegetables, fish, or meat. The well-paid chefs are highly creative in manipulating a cream sauce, cheesy filling, or buttery sauté into every plate. The low-end food is meat kebabs (not ventured by me) or vegetables straight out of a can with a salty canned sauce heated over the top (thanks to the 10 page Chinese menu that only had 1 veggie option… and it was canned)… it was the cheapest meal yet. The Indian restaurant in town is the only restaurant that breaks the pattern. I’m a fan of it!

2) Not many spices are used (even the Indian restaurant disappoints). The locals have not heard of cumin, there has been one use of red pepper spice in all of my two months, and no freshly ground salt nor pepper offered at restaurants. It’s the powdered light brown pepper in the glass shakers that decorate the tables.

3) Peanut Butter jars cause comments. Yep, Scandanavia is not known for its peanut butter fetish. I was in withdrawal. I yearned to spread it on bananas and dip in apple slices so that’s exactly what I did for work and hiking snacks. Neither instance was devoid of comments. One coworker shook their head as “typical American” and the fellow hiker realized it was a good idea providing energy and sustenance in the outdoors. There is no Jiffy on the shelves here, no ma’am. Only the stuff of peanuts and salt. Mr. Ed would surely approve.

4) Almond marzipan tart. I’ve had to re-learn the true practice of will-power and restraint. These morsels of sweet gooey, puffy, yet crispy goodness are best understood in three layers. The bottom being a buttery, homemade pie crust. The middle layer is fresh marzipan… like nothing that is found in the US. The top is a sweet puffy layer of crisped, yet fluffy sponge that tastes like angel food cake. I suspect this delicate mantle is beaten egg whites and sugar. The heavenly result is genius and a creation I’d like to replicate at home.

5) 3 weeks to find hummus. Those that have dined next to my kitchen know it’s a Sas staple and sacrilegious in the vegetarian world to make it so reserved. For those unfamiliar to both, it’s like a costumed child knocking on front doors on Halloween night only to discover one house out of 8 blocks actually offers candy. It’s been eight weeks, and hummus has been offered once. I did make it at a coworker’s hours, however there was only a blender to use (not a food chopper), so it didn’t turn out quite right. Blasphemy!

The soft, therapeutic introduction to the Enya album just started wafting from the pine rafters.

6) “I don’t deserve this meal” has crossed my mind on two dining occasions. That has not happened ever before when at a restaurant nor for home cooking. The practical explanation of this could be that never have I dined alone for so long. My dinner conversations are offset by a tourist brochure, reading book, or now computer. When the food arrives, it is almost startling. Each flavor is dissected, questioned, and finally analyzed by the tastebuddies and saliva. They work together to develop complex algorithmic solutions to the ingredients and preparations of the meal variables. I require them to show all their work that achieved the final answer, so most of the time it involves many forkfuls to arrive at the savory answer. An unadorned reason for this thought is “wow, the food is superb… at least in comparison to the English skills of the menu translator”.

7) Apple pie with strawberry sauce. The owner of Stragata claimed this was the best dessert. It was good, really good. The apples here are as fresh as if you plucked them from your private orchard. The strawberry sauce was certainly made by the chef (though from what strawberries I remain clueless). Since noting this comment, the chocolate fondant -more of a rich, chocolate lava bundt cake, is way more appealing for the chocolate monster that lives within. I will certainly be demolishing it on a future special night.

Well, that explains the foodie observations made over the past two months. Those still engaged may ask, “what dining obsession do you miss most from Cali?” The answer to that is my husband. Oh, you mean food? That too, is an easy answer… fresh squeezed orange juice. It’s my personal wake-up and go-go juice in the morning. To be greeted with it at the airport [hint Jamie hint], would be a most refreshing welcome back to Cali.


Afterword:
This entry concluded with the last sip of wine. I went to pay the bill and the waiter claimed, “ohhh, I was just going to bring you another glass of wine”. I replied with a “that’s okay,” and paid the full bill. The owner added, “yes, where are you off to so soon?” He then proceeded to pour a special glass of wine (beyond my normal house red order) and force it down my throat. Not ten minutes later he delivered a still-warm chocolate fondant ladled with a walnut fruit cream and that strawberry sauce, with a sidekick of homemade ice cream; it was an edible masterpiece. He claimed that it was a “mistake” from the kitchen. I strive to have such mistakes. They may negate my work-out efforts, however one must enjoy life’s small pleasures … chocolate in any way, shape, or form.

Monday, November 2, 2009

02 Nov - Efficiencies

One of the culture aspects that continues to impress me is the Norwegian efficiency. The US may have tried to implement efficiency in corporations and production environments. At least it has been attempted, that’s more than could be said for our government. Remind me, why do we still use paper ballots?

First worthy mention are the toll booths… or lack thereof. Don’t get me wrong, even the roads cost money in this expensive country, however there are no booths. Actually, there are signs that specifically say “do not stop, do not slow down”. All cars must have the electronic toll card in their windshield (including rental cars), so all tolls are drive-thru at 60+km/hr (~40 mph). Oh yes, Norway will take your money as quickly as possible.

Second, the grocery store check-out follows the same “quick money” motto. When the grocery bill is totaled, do not hand all your cash to the checker clerk. Hand the bills to the clerk and deposit coins in the coin machine. The same machine that dispenses coins for your change, will gladly eat your metal currency. If you do hand them to the clerk, there is a roll of the eyes before the clerk’s arm reaches over and the hand blindly deposits them in the machine’s mouth. That hand knows right where the slot is from the previous Americ.. oblivious customers.

Third, the metal tokens themselves are efficient… or maybe just inflated. The currency coins are in equivalent US amounts of $3.75, $1.75, $0.20, and $0.10. They have no equivalent nickels , let alone pennies. Actually, the dime equivalent is treated like a hot potato. If you can offload them onto the clerk, you “win”. Not even the parking meters accept the low-life half kroner.

Fourth, the little ticket that waits in line for you. At NY delis and the DMV, I was introduced to the Take-A-Number system. You find the little red dispenser, tear off the ticket, peek over everyone else’s shoulders to see whom to trade with, then fall in your seat until the red lights proclaim your number. Never have I seen such a system in an event venue (Oslo Opera House). I’m surprised more corporations have not caught onto the idea that the person can relax and browse the floor while waiting. The customer is not restricted to a certain location. This has worked well in the Post Offices where there are other items to buy (cards, bookmarks, post cards, ribbons, wrapping, and boxes with a cherry on top). I’ll restrain myself from any comments regarding our homeland’s government postal system. The trickiest part of this number pull system is when the little red number spewer is not in an obvious location or there are enough people browsing to take the attention away from the lighted signs that if they installed any further from eye-level, would be part of the ceiling tiles. It’s especially embarrassing when the oblivious customer approaches the counter, back of the neck burning from the browsers’’ scowls, only to be rejected by the counter worker to “take a number” (but in Norwegian).

The fifth, last (for tonight), and most effective is nothing new… traffic circles. They are scary to less experience circlists and those whom are used to the peace of the traffic light. Jamie was white knuckled while sitting passenger in a couple of the dozen circles we circled. It would be great to see circles replace the 4-way residential stops in the South Bay. I can even imagine a creative, partially underground one at some of the Pacific Coast Highway intersections. They are fun to drive, easier on the neck (only look one direction), force cars to slow down, and for those that don’t the pedestrians at least gets a squealing tire warning of the oncoming hurdle.

That’s my thoughts on efficiency. If anyone knows a government official that has any access to any of these five topics, please let me know. Enjoy!

Sunday, November 1, 2009

31 Oct – Halloweenless

From Norway


It’s a most unusual Halloween. I hesitated plugging in my laptop for fear that the train carriage’s electricity would fail. There is a group of eight football (aka soccer) fans chanting to their laptop’s music and warming up their livers for a big game tomorrow. If their team wins this match, they will be promoted to the highest division. I’m on a cross-country train from Bergen to Oslo. For the past three hours, the carriage has sped past fjord-side farms, evergreen peaks, and over snowy high country (above tree-line). It’s as close to the Polar Express as I may ever get, red colored train and all. It’s quite rowdy in here and a quiet wonderland out there… beautiful.

The past day and a half in Bergen lived up to and surpassed expectations. As promised, Bergen is wedged between seven peaks and the wide fjord. Being on a ship for the past 6 days, Jamie & I were feeling altitude confinement. We trudged across town with luggage in tow, and dropped the baggage at the hotel (reserved four hours ago via internet on the boat). We headed up and up and up to the closest, most popular of the seven peaks. The forest at the top had troll totem pole art scattered amongst the wet mossy earth and pine trees. There were rope swings, crawling tubes, and challenging steep wooden rope bridges that have long been outlawed by US cities to avoid lawyer confrontations at the cost of child’s play. The sun was just tucking in behind the watery horizon as we summited. We bypassed the electric cable car up the slope, however the hordes that used it, beat us to the souvenir and restaurant at the top. It really was a great view of the colorful, active town. Once again, we really lucked out with the weather. Known as a wet, dismal city, we had dry overcast clouds followed by a completely sunny day.

On the sunny day, we walked a self-guided tour around the various neighborhoods of harbors and old timbered houses built not six inches from each other. Fires plagued the city over the centuries taking down rows of these timbered establishments; however they are part of Bergen’s historic heart. They are very quaint and charming.
One can only eat so much cream and fish. I joked that my belly had expanded so much that it needed its own bed. I mentioned we need to start leaving five minutes early because my belly would now arrive 5 minutes before me. And so is probably typical after a cruise. After the Norwegian boat fare, I was craving fresh Norwegian breads, and anything foreign. The idea of eating breakfast in a bakery was most exciting. Various rolls filled that gap. We found a Tex-Mex restaurant that served up some homemade $18 margaritas in martini glasses (homemade meaning with fresh lime juice… no syrup) and we split a veggie fajita plate (no money left after the beverages!). Some of you may remember my experience upon arriving in Oslo airport with the Duty Free (see the 1st entry). Alcohol is very restricted (as the soccer fans across the aisle continually pile empty 20 oz beer cans at their feet). It’s only sold at government run Vinmonopolets (Wine Monopoly) that results in expensive alcohol that is only available during particular times. The second night Jamie brought back Vietnamese food to the hotel room. I know, shake your heads all you want or roll your eyes. It’s really a challenge finding good foreign food here. I’ll take advantage of it while in a city!

The Sogndal soccer fans engaged Jamie in a long conversation about their down-home upbringing in small towns and the need to move to Bergen to get jobs. They analyzed a map about the different western regions of fjords and mountains. The singing and chanting has increased to every other song. I believe they are disembarking within the next half hour or so. They generously gave us a team Sogndal knit scarf. After some post-game research on the game results, I think I’ll wear it to work on Monday.

Halloween was completely void of any pumpkins and jack-o-lanterns. Norway has not celebrated this holiday in its history. It is only in the past five years that trick-or-treating is starting to catch-on with the kids. The adults are discouraging of this new activity. At this point, it is seen as more of a tradition being advertised to the kids and pushed by the businesses as a money-making scheme. Many adults (some parents included) reject the idea. Jamie & I stopped by a coworker (now friend’s) and her boyfriend’s house to have a chat before leaving to drop Jamie off at the airport. While we were at their house, one trick-or-treater knocked on the door. The boyfriend put on his white grueling mask and hobbled away to answer the door. He was certainly enjoying the scream reactions from the costumed visitors.

Two weeks ago at work we had discussed Halloween. I brought them up to speed, starting with the history of Halloween and ending with the crazy decorations and tricks that people do to trick-or-treaters today. It made for some good laughs. The Norwegians talk about it with an air of disdain. They informed me that just in the past year or two the residents are starting to understand that by turning lights off, it will deter the kids. Prior to that, the early trick-or-treaters (5 years ago) were knocking on doors to clueless people and walked away dejected… though not enough to try again next year. With the proliferation of fast food joints and now a tradition that encourages kids to request free junk food, the American ploys are not too popular among Norwegian parents. I can’t say I blame them; I’m sure it’s tough to fend off the pesky corporation schemes to the big pleading eyes of your own child! I simply miss carving and eating pumpkins. I’ll have to make up for it at Thanksgiving. Hope you had a good Halloween!

Thursday, October 29, 2009

28 Oct - Last Full Sea Day

From Norway


Last full day aboard involved more motoring time than usual. We awoke to the docking in the fjord-side community of Trondheim, Norway’s 3rd largest city. Jamie and I vigorously walked for almost two hours through the center, past the famous cathedral, and up the hill to the old fort. It was an enjoyable town with waterways, old colorful buildings, and boats docked on the waters. The streets were alive with walkers and bikers commuting to work. This is the first stop where the ship was not visible from the highest point around. In the past ports, the cruise ship has resembled a town construction project that lacked a building permit… oversized and out of place.

Despite the morning walk, we spent an hour doing laps on Deck 5 after the best lunch yet (smoked cod and some potatoes, green onions and cheese gently spiced with chili powder). The weather surpassed the previous days with endless sunshine and no wind, which made the walking and views worth every moment. Our eyes were peeled for wild life, however we missed it all, if there was any to be missed.

On a daily basis, we’ve been conducting our own private happy hours in the empty upper lounge. We fill up our plastic cup from our Malbec meritage wine box, and grab our books for an easy afternoon read. The sunsets are not to be missed during this time. The sky resembles a rainbow trout… pink, light greens, and blues. The time of the sunset continually changes. The sun set tonight was over 1.5 hours later than the time it set from our Northerly departure port. It’s quite amazing. Keep in mind, the sunrise is changing by just as much. Therefore, 4 hours of sunlight was gained by going roughly 5 degrees south in latitude. Keep in mind the sun already is setting earlier and earlier each day, yet we’re going south faster. Jamie mentioned it’d be a good problem for a Physics major to figure out how the sunset time due to boat’s change in latitude versus daily losing daylight factors affect each other. He quickly corrected himself with “physics student” before I could press the challenge to him!

Dinner tonight was pumpkin soup starter (it was disappointing), halibut entrée, and some sort of ice cream ladyfinger whipped cream cake that was brought out from the kitchen with sizzling sparklers. On the way out of the dining room, I stopped by the lonely old couple’s table. This couple has eaten by themselves at the same table for every meal. She is restricted to a wheelchair, so he waits on her hand and foot. They are very quiet, petite, and the sweet old couple that fairytales idealize. Observing their routines, my feelings towards them turned to a sort of shame or sorrow since they were being ignored by the rest of the passengers. Everyone else was having a boisterous good time and the lonely old couple sat by themselves, at a handicap reserved table. This evening I put a hand on her shoulder and complimented her on her Norwegian knit sweater. She looked up through her big glasses and offered her cold hand, which I met with my other hand. Her husband clarified the compliment while the old lady kissed my hand. It turns out they were from Holland and had done the cruise in 1996. They were staying in the same exact room they had slept in 13 years ago. That cruise was Polarlys’s second cruise and they said there were just 10 people onboard. Amazing! They were cheerful to have this small chat and if we see them in the cafeteria for lunch, perhaps we’ll join them tomorrow.

After the evening’s port stop, we met up with our London dining partners and split their bottle of sparkling wine, which came with their room suite. We came armed with a bottle of red and spent the rest of the evening (until 11pm) chatting it up.

Tomorrow afternoon we will arrive at our departure port of Bergen, Norway’s 2nd largest city. Almost a week of cruising is a perfect amount of time. Living in the small quarters, the limited yet endless quantities of food, and restricted exercise facilities is starting to wear on my body. We have a day and a half in Bergen and will likely grab a hotel in the town to make a home-base for two nights. Bergen was Norway’s capital for much of the country’s history and is still known today as the prettiest city of them all. It’s surrounded by seven peaks, all connected by a hiking trail that is accessible from a cable car up the mountain. There are a few key sites to see and activities to experience. I dare say we will skip the ferry tours.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

27 Oct - Watercolors on Western Norwegian Waters

Ahoy! The days pass by surprisingly quickly. I’ve had barely anytime to read my book and have not done any knitting! During the daylight hours we’re dining, doing laps on Deck 5 while searching for sea-life (seals, fish, and sea eagles thus far), observing the docking procedures, or painting. Yes, there are two artists on board who are putting together a cruise DVD of pictures and video. They also brought art supplies and have done three art “sessions” since we’ve come onboard. I’ve done four water color postcard paintings and have really enjoyed it. I think I’ll get a small kit for my future trips. It’s an activity that is relaxing and travels well. I wait for the dark hours to write the blog and check emails.

This cruise doubles as a ferry, so it takes 4-6 stops per day and a few in the middle of the night. We generally stay on the boat for the 15 minute stops and disembark for the 30-90 minute stops. This might beg the question, “is that enough time to see the land sights?” Yes, it most certainly is. These towns are quite small. They are increasing in size the further South we go, however 30 minutes is still enough time to get a feeling for the fjord side village’s personality. The number of excursions that passengers can sign-up for are drastically reduced this time of the year both for the weather (it’s too cold and un predictable for zodiacs, and not enough snow for dog sledding) as well as reduced number of passengers. There has already been a cancellation of one of the outings due to not enough participation. The remaining excursions are basically bus tours of the town or land that either meet the boat at the next port or if it’s a long enough stop, return to the same dock.

A spectacular performance occurred on the ship today. Some see such an act of bravery on their “cruises from hell” and most never have the opportunity to be this type of spectator. There was a helicopter rescue drill this evening. The loudspeaker provided a 15 minute warning, mentioning that passengers should not go outside on the boat’s stern. Everyone casually ended their activities (in our case reading & painting) and headed to the back of the boat. My station was on Deck 7 at the rear of the boat in the doorway. I shut off the automatic door such that it was permanently open. Jaime headed to the outside balcony of Deck 5 along with the rest of the interested passengers and crew. It was quite a show! A helicopter hovered 30 ft above the back corner of Deck 7. First, down came a rope, next zip-lined a florescent rescue dude, followed by a metal box. After some scrambling, up went the box, then dude, and I retreated from my station to Deck 6. The back of Deck 6 had a close-up view and deafening hum of the helicopter. It then whizzed away. I imagine this training is a very rare event because the boat crew was standing on the back decks with the passengers. What luck.

This evening we docked at another nameless town. It really does have a name, it’s just at this point they all start melting together in my memory, so they are now referred to as the time of day, for example, “this evening’s stop” or “this morning’s stop”. At this evening’s stop, a Northbound Hurtigruten ship (Midnight Sun, except in Norwegian) roped up behind us. We scuttled around the upper floors of it and were impressed by the openness and airy-ness of the decks (aka stories of the ship), however we marked it down due to the color scheme (neutral colors) and its covered lap deck which minimizes the view. This ship was finished in 2003, ten years after Polarlys (our ship) was commissioned. Ours resembles more of a teal 80s casino, however we’ve adjusted to it and now appreciate the bright nautical colors.

We are tuckered out tonight and plan to get to bed early. The sleeping on the ship is wonderful. Our room has two trundle beds, which keeps the room efficient and spacious. The sleeping is wonderful and very quiet. Our dinner dining partners (the next youngest couple, from London) invited us to share their champagne. Perhaps we’ll toast to the wonderful luck we’ve had on this cruise. They learned today, straight from the captain, that it’s extremely rare to see the Northern Lights this early in the season, let alone as good as we saw them. That was the best show he’s ever seen in October. We’ve also had great weather. It has sprinkled once and rained for 20 minutes… which is a walk in the park compared to the typical stormy autumns. We have one more full day left on the ship. The big stop tomorrow morning is Trondheim. It’s a 3.5 hour stop and we plan to walk for most of it.

Yes, yesterday was my birthday. We celebrated by opening a bottle of California Red Zinfandel (from Oslo airport’s Duty Free store) and Jamie had brought some gifts. I poured a glass of the Zin for Harry, a lively old London chap. We had a solid conversation about a variety of topics (from family/career to health care, Obama, and the war). It was quite fun to get another perspective, for him as well. At dinner they served me a special little fondant cake that I shared with our dinner dining couple. Upon rolling out of the dining room, Harry caught me by the sleeve and convinced the fellow diners to sing Happy Birthday. He then continued with two other passengers claiming it had been their birthdays within the past week, so the room sung the song two additional times. As I said, Harry is an active one! It was quite a lovely day to turn 29.