20 Nov – Water of Life, with T- 13hr left

It’s 8:30pm on Friday night at the airport hotel. I am beat.

The past week has lived up to the busy schedule that was expected. Some of my coworkers arrived for a review meeting, so it was great to hear and chat with other Americans. Last night we participated in a very traditional Christmas dinner at a hut/lodge at the top of a local mountain (remember that the mountains around here are more similar to an Adirondack mountain than a Tahoe mountain). The dinner included various meats, steamed brussel sprouts, boiled potatoes, mashed split peas, pureed orange cabbage root vegetable (no idea what the name is), cranberries, and two types of fish. The one type was Lutefisk.

Lutefisk deserves its own paragraph. Not because it is particularly good, oh no. It is exceptionally peculiar. Lutefisk is made from dried cod (perhaps hanging outside for 1 year), soaking it for one day in water, then allowing it to absorb soda (plain kind), among other flavors. The result is a fishy tasting jell-o. I tried the slightly opaque jiggling bite at the beginning of the meal. My tastebuds were sending red alert “Abort immediately” signals to my fork. It was quickly chased down with some aquavit before stomach reflexes could start. Halfway through the first plate, in hoping that this was all a malfunction and a second bite could only improve, I tried another wiggling nibble. Yuck, there was nothing broken about the initial assessment. The Norwegians claim it must be eaten with bacon over the top of it. Hmmm, that’s not the first time that greasy disguise has been used.

Wow, did the aquavit flow. As you’re aware, the aquavit (translate: water of life) is consumed at ceremonial dinners (like Xmas), with the purpose of breaking down the fatty foods. I suspect this is only the textbook reasoning. There seemed to be other purposes as many toasts insued and laughs were had. Aquavit is made from potatoes with a hint of caraway seeds. Somehow the resulting effect is similar to licorice scented vodka. It is served in a shot glass and seems to be sipped throughout the meal. If they sell it at Duty Free tomorrow morning (at 6am), I will bring home a bottle. If not, we can hope for next time (but not for at least a couple months please).

The time here has been a great experience. On more than one occasion, I’ve been asked a question along these lines:
We will probably never have as much time in Norway as you have had. If we are only there briefly, what are the three "don't miss" places/things in your mind?

This question can be answered in two ways. I can answer it in relation to my favorite experiences, or it can be at a level that is more accommodating to a future traveler. I’ll do the latter. For limited time, I would recommend sticking to the west coast. The central and eastern regions are more of the same. The west coast has the ocean, fjords, and reasonably easy access to the mountains (tree-line).
#1 Fjords – See the fjords. It is best to see them by car. A drive out of Bergen, or east of Stravanger should do just find. Many roads will require ferries to continue, which allow even better views of the fjords. Spending two or three days of fjord-hopping should full-fill the appetites of most.
#2 City – For some culture, spend a day or two in Bergen. Do the hike (or be taken up by cable car) the nearby hill/mtn, take the Norway-In-A-Nutshell tour (train, boat & bus), or simply just stroll around the different quaint old neighborhoods. It is quite the colorful little city / big town wedged between evergreen mountains and the fjord inlet.
#3 High country – Within a drive, bus (or train too I think) from Bergen is Hardvanger national park. I recommend spending some time to explore this high country. It is the classic Norwegian mountain plateau where reindeer roam wild… though you’d be lucky to find one. Much of it is above treeline (at 3-4K feet) and there are plenty of water sources… ponds, lakes, and waterfalls.
#4 Arctic Circle – It is a trip (literally and figuratively) going this far north. No need to go just to “say you did it”, but rather go to see the northern lights (if in the late fall/winter) or to the Lofoten Islands (or further North) in the endless sun summer.

Whoops, was I supposed to only provide three suggestions? Well, I’ll let you decide which one to skip. The only other suggestions I’d recommend is to rely on planes, trains, boats, or buses. The costs incurred in renting a car are not only high, however parking fees (in most towns) and gas prices are excessive too. Also, it’s best to travel in the shoulder seasons for lodging cost purposes. The cabins seem to be cheapest (1/3 cost of hotels) and they provide a place to cook in (instead of spending silly money at restaurants). I am happy to provide input to anyone considering a trip to this region.

An exerpt from Julia Child's autobiography regarding her thoughts of Oslo/Norway once she moved away were:
“I begain to feel nostalgic for Norway, with its good sturdy folk, its excellent educational system, its unspoiled nature, its lack of advertiseing, and its non-hectic rhythms. “ Julia Child

I couldn't agree more... it's all still true today. It’s now T-12 hours. Awesome. Home, here I come!