13 Sept - Mosses and Fossens

From Norway

Sunday morning part of me awoke at 6:45am, yet the rest of me convinced me to go back to sleep. I re-awoke at 8:15 with a leap out of bed. Well, maybe not a leap, but energized for the day of exploring. The desk receptionist recommended a hike that started 200 feet away and followed the river up into the valley to three waterfalls. According to the map, the first two miles paralleled a road (at some points joining it) so I was pondering if I should just drive up the road and park at the end. The hotel guy convinced me that the first 2 miles are pretty, so that’s what I did.

Equipped with my hiking boots, camera, and backpack of munchies, I started up the trail. For the first 2 miles the trail was a ever so gradual incline (barely noticeable) on a gravel/dirt path through a wet forest of pines, deciduous trees, carpeted with reindeer moss. It winded up the valley sometimes next to the river, and other times away. Spread like crumbs along the trail, were historical information signs telling stories of what had happened in Kinsarvik hundreds of years ago…. Whether it be the river floods, cow drama, mountain thiefs, market trading trails, summer farm fights or the rock geology. Each sign was a motivator to continue on.

My decision to hike the first section was confirmed when I looked ahead of me on the trail and a wild ferret was hobbling towards me. It made a quick turn into the greenery and vanished. I tried for a little while to catch another glimpse, but was unable to find the furry friend again. In hindsight, I should’ve looked in the trees. It’s appearance was somewhere between a black ferret and a wolverine. Turns out it was a mink! Awesome.

After about 2 miles, there is a hydro electric plant feeding off the first fossen. I mean waterfall. The hydro plant diverts the water at the top through a 2 ft diameter pipe, down the hill and into the hydro building at the bottom. This maximizes the power generated from the water. First waterfall, checked. It was only another 15-20 minutes of hiking before the 2nd, bigger waterfall was seen (though it was heard first). Second one, checked. Another 30-45 minutes in mud and carefully up smooth, slippery rock before I arrived at the 3rd waterfall. It had a swimming lagoon, ranger’s cabin, and a grassy knoll… very picturesque. Third waterfall checked.

On the hike between the 1st and 2nd waterfall, I met a friendly Norwegian couple on the trail. They were from the southernmost town in Norway and were in Kinsarvik for a long weekend away from their 11 and 14 year old boys. This was their first time hiking in the mountains without them, so the boys were concerned. They were in excellent shape and I think the boys were just jealous that they were left at home in school while the parents had fun in the forest. In addition, they had informed me that there was a 4th waterfall! I did not know that it existed, and was certainly not about to discount it from my agenda. These waterfalls are on the scale of Yosemite waterfalls; they were nothing like a typical “waterfall trail” in the States. At the lagoon waterfall, the spray from the 4th waterfall, high up on the next ledge, was tantalizing.

The next section of trail was getting up above tree line. The trees were very scattered, at most 6 ft high. Most of the surroundings were grasses, moss, lichen and rocks. I settled down on a smooth rock that had a great view of the valley and fjord. In the other direction was a view of the 4th and largest waterfall. After a rest with crackers, cheese, my shoes off, and a watch check of 1pm, I started down the hill to the car.

On the trek down, I met up with the Norwegian couple again. This time we discussed his hobby of American Cars, and more specifically, corvettes. When they are new, they cost 5 times as much in Norway as they do in the US. He had two older/collector items corvettes. He runs the website http://www.lov2xlr8.no . He posted their pictures from the hike on the website (if you scroll down on the left side of the page under “Other Subjects > Norway Pictures > Hardanger”). Anyways, interesting couple & they are planning a desert tour of the US Southwest next year. Some of the spots they are considering is Zion, Bryce Canyon, Santa Fe, in addition to other Route 66 back roads.

The drive back was rough. I was originally planning to do a loop (drive home a different way), however the road was closed just beyond Kinsarvik, so I went back the way I came. That crafts fair had ended, so all those campers and semi-trailers were heading in the opposite direction which made driving through all those tunnels quite sporty. The radio kept me entertained for a bit, even playing the song “Waterfalls” by TLC. What a coincidence! It’s been a while since I heard that tune. For the last hour I was in Norwegian traffic. It took 50 minutes to go 11 miles. There was a bridge under construction such that only one direction was open. There were traffic cops giving direction, and not favoring our direction.

On a side note, the pictures are difficult to take out here due to the overexposure. The sky and waterfalls are bright and the hills are dark. So, the pictures don’t do it justice. Included in the photos is a picture of a “thumbs up” into the sky. That is the high noon picture. Granted the horizon is mountainous, the sun is not very high. In fact, the sun doesn’t shine into many of the valleys (like the Buer Glacier valley) this time of year.

That sums up Sunday’s adventure!